Technical Help Bulletins

We're here to help so here's some very useful and important information

Transmission Cooler Flushing

Transmission oil coolers must be properly flushed using a power flush machine.  These power flushers properly flush and pulse transmission coolers and lines to remove metal, dirty oil, and material from a failed transmission prior to installing a remanufactured transmission.

Using solvent and air is not the proper procedure for flushing out transmission coolers and lines.  There are store bought products such as Trans Flush that aid you in flushing your transmission cooler and lines, but does not produce the same results as using a power flusher.

Problems Associated with Improper Flushing

Hydraulic Transmission Types - Improperly flushed transmission cooler and lines will leave behind debris which can cause sticky governors, wrong gear starts, stuck valves, shift issues, and premature failures in your newly installed remanufactured transmission.

Electronic Transmission Types - Improperly flushed transmission cooler and lines will leave behind debris which can wreak havoc in electrical controlled transmissions.  Electrical solenoids and valve bodies when energized under normal operation act like electro magnets.  These "Electro-magnets" will tend to pickup any metal or debris left in the transmission cooler and/or oil.  This can cause malfunctioning in valve bodies and solenoids causing wrong gear starts, shift issues, low line pressure, skipped shifts and late shifts.

Engine Stalling - Many times a plugged or restricted transmission cooler will cause the engine to "Stall" when put into reverse.  This is caused from a lack of oil feed to the transmission causing the lock-up torque converter to engage or restrict flow.

Mandatory Transmission Cooler Replacement

Many vehicles after transmission failure require that the transmission cooler/radiator be replaced in order to reduce repeated failures.  This is mandated by the factory in many service bulletins as well as by ATR.  The reason is this...Many of these vehicles have a "fin type" transmission cooler in the radiator and after a major transmission failure, the debris from the failure clogs these fins and will restrict flow causing damage to a transmission quickly.

This can be avoided in one of two ways:

  • Replace the radiator in the vehicle (Trans cooler in radiator), which is very costly.
  • Use an External By Pass Cooler.

An inexpensive way is to completely bypass the trans-cooler in the radiator (not running through the radiator cooler at all), and installing a Heavy-Duty external transmission cooler.  These are easy to find at any Auto Parts Supply House.  ATR recommends a large transmission cooler that fits your vehicle's front radiator/condenser space.

The following is a list of Transmissions that requires a mandatory transmission cooler replacement:

  • Ford E4OD and 4R100 Series
  • Chrysler - All 500's, 518, 618, 45RFE and 47RE Series
  • Jatco (Isuzu, Nissan, Mitsubishi) JR403 Medium Series Trucks
  • Aisin 450-43LE (Isuzu, GM Tiltmaster, Nissan, Mitsubishi) Medium Series Trucks

Inline Filters - All Light-Duty transmissions come with Inline Filters.  This helps prevent any metal from returning to the cooler.

Technical Service Information for Aisin 450-43LE

Flywheel / Flexplate Alignment [ATSG 06-13]
COMPLAINT: After flywheel and or flexplate replacement, the returns is a short period of time with the transmission leaking out the front and a vibration complaint. Upon removal of the converter, a check of the front seal area reveals that the pump bushing is severely worn.
CAUSE: One or more of the flywheel bolts have bottomed out against the flexplate causing the flywheel, flexplate and converter assembly to have excessive run out resulting in the above complaints as seen in Figure 1.
CORRECTION: The flywheel has a white paint mark on it from the factory. The flexplate has a drilled dimple in it from the factory. Line the white paint mark on the flywheel up with the drilled dimple in the flexplate, (Refer to Figure 2), and then bolt it to the crankshaft.

Note: It is a good practice to mark the flywheel to flexplate relation before removal just in case the factory marks are illegible.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Torque Converter Installation Guide

The installation of a torque converter is not always as easy as it looks. Therefore, we strongly recommend that you read these instructions and follow them carefully so that you avoid any unnecessary problems due to improper installation.

STEP 1: Once you have removed the converter from the box, take a minute to make sure that it is the correct converter for your application. To do this, hold the converter onto the flexplate to check that the converter pilot fits properly into the rear of the crank shaft with no excess clearance. Check to make sure that the bolt holes or the studs on the converter line up with the bolt pattern of the flexplate.

STEP 2: After you check the converter for fit to the flexplate and crankshaft, check the flexplate itself for cracks or excessive wear on the starter teeth (see image below). It would be a shame to go through the trouble of removing the transmission and not replacing the flexplate if necessary. We strongly recommend that you replace your stock flexplate with a heavy duty flexplate. They are available for most applications. Call ATR at 1-866-738-7267 for more information.

This wear is common on 1000 and 2000 series transmissions

STEP 3: When installing the converter into the transmission, pour approximately 1 quart of your choice of transmission fluid into the converter before installing it into the transmission. Using light grease, coat the transmission seal, front pump bushing and converter neck.

STEP 4: Install converter into transmission, carefully trying not to damage the front seal and bushing. Once you are into the pump, hold the pilot of the converter with one hand to center the converter and rotate the front mounting pads in a clockwise direction. This will allow the splines and hubs slots or (flats in case of Ford type) to engage into the transmission. At this point, use a light lithium grease or equivalent and grease the torque converter pilot, and crank shaft so that the converter slides into the crank without binding up.


STEP 5: Before installing the transmission onto the engine, make sure that the engine dowel pins are free of rust, and that the dowel holes in the transmission are free of dirt or corrosion. Grease both lightly to avoid any type of bind up. NOTE: If you are using a motor plate, make sure that your dowel pins are long enough. In case of a .90 mid plate, I think you can get away with using the stock engine dowel pins. Anything thicker than .090, purchase and install longer dowel pins.

STEP 6: Position the transmission onto the engine dowel pins and install transmission mounting bolts. The transmission housing should contact the engine block squarely. If it does not, LOOK FOR THE REASON. DO NOT attempt to draw the transmission against the block with the bolts. The converter is probably not all of the way into the transmission.

STEP 7: After the transmission housing bolts are tight, check to see if the converter can turn freely (except Ford applications with studs). Push the converter into the transmission as far as possible. Using a ruler or scale, check the distance between the converter pad and the flexplate. Pull the converter forward a minimum of 1/8 of an inch, maximum 3/16 inch. Using the flat washers, remove any additional space between the converter and flexplate. NOTE: In case of Ford applications with studs, measure from end of stud to flexplate. Tighten converter nuts and measure again. The difference should be within the tolerance.

STEP 8: Finish the installation of the transmission. When finished, pour 4 quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission. Start the engine and immediately add two more quarts of transmission fluid. Continue adding transmission fluid until it is properly filled.

When Experience Counts-Trust ATR!